I've used most of them from Loctit and Permatex. There are many kinds of Loctite. They have a self life. Some need primers. They take different method to break them loose. Heat is one.
Locking is not just for the threads. Using cylindrical binding compound (609) in the taper will build up any voids once cured. It's a plastic and will take about 24 hours to set up. It cures without oxygen, anaerobic. I would use this on the taper if you have one, and a removable on the screw. They must be cleaned. You can get a small sampler of 243.
Loctite 243 Loctite® 243™ Primerless, Oil Tolerant Removable Medium Strength Blue Threadlocker is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners between 1/4" and 3/4" (6 to 20 mm). It not only works on active metals (e.g. brass, copper) but also on passive substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces. It tolerates minor surface contamination from various oils, such as cutting, lubrication, anti-corrosion and protection fluids.
Loctite 271 Mil Spec Low Viscosity High Strength, Red Threadlocker on Threads. You will need heat to remove it and only need a drop. This is the heavy duty stuff. It could be used on the taper.
Loctite 609 Retaining compound is used when press or slip fitting cylindrical components that are not threaded. It fills the gaps between parts, creating a rock solid connection. 609 formula is an all purpose, quick curing compound that is perfect for general press fit applications for gaps up to .005" that will not be exposed to excessive heat. 620 is a high heat slip fit formula that will withstand temperatures of up to 450 F and fill gaps up to .015" while sealing the metal and preventing corrosion. 638 is a super heavy duty compound for use in high stress applications, for slip fit applications of up to .010". You can get a really small tube for about $4.
A friend told me that as far as the Lock Tite went, they have one that is not as hard to break loose as the one I have, that you could break its grip if needed without the heat. May put that on there just to be sure......
I have been trying to respond to this for days and it would not come up, maybe this time it will come through....
I think maybe the problem maybe I spray everyting down before a ride with WD 40, well I have been cutting back on that and the areas I oil. Today a 10 mile bike ride with no problems with it, "stayed snug as a bug in a rug". I have the Locke Tite for threads but have not used it yet, waiting on to see what happens.
Bike shops are about a 100 miles away or more and I do not travel to big towns very often, just had rather stay in my country life. I guess it has been 2 years or better since I have been to a big town. I do have access to a bike grave yard though and it has some good bike parts in it. Thnak you for your help, I really appreciate it....
Assuming you have the type of crank arms that attach to a tapered spindle it sounds like your left crankarm is ruined. You see what keeps the crankarm on the spindle is friction between them from a tight press fit. Either it was over-tightened pushing the crank arm up the spindle until it bottomed out or it became wallowed out from riding it loose. In either case it is pretty much shot. Your local bike shop might have a left crankarm that would allow you to inexpensively fix your bike. Replacing your entire crank and bottom bracket would probably cost more than your bike is worth. Consider investing in a torque wrench to avoid this in the future. Over- or under- tightening your crank will lead to failure.
Something must be worn or another issue causing it to back out. Before you use locktite you need to look at all the parts. There are many types of Locktite and Permatex. You need to use the right one or it will cause issues. Parts need to be cleaned and maybe primed with a special primer. If you have voids that can be built up with cylindrical binding compound (#609). Then a locktite on the threads or vibra-tite.
If I'm picturing what you're referring to accurately, you should be able to simply use some Lock-Tite on the threads and that will take care of the problem. If you want to hedge your bets, use a combination of lock washer and flat washer on both sides and only torque it down with as much force as it designated in the technical manual.
If that does not work for you, consider taking it to your LBS (Local Bike Shop) and explain the problem to them. Heck, for that matter, I'd just go ahead and do that. As far as I'd be concerned, the $25 or so I'd pay, would be well worth the peace of mind that it wouldn't happen to me again in the middle of a ride, forcing me to walk home once more.
I have the nut that holds the pedal arm on the spindle (on the left side only) that will work its way off during a ride, it is not as bad since I put a lock washer under the nut. I went for a couple of weeks after this and no problem but now I can ride about a couple of miles and it works loose. I learned to carry tools with me to tighten it back up. The first time it came loose the whole pedal arm come off while I was in a ride, lost nut and washer, had to walk bike home. Anyone have any suggestions, my buddy told me to get some spray that would lock the nut on,he said it would make it really hard to break loose, but am afraid of what if I need to work on it and it would not come loose or it stripped the threads trying to get it loose.
I have a Jeep bike and have had it for about 5 years, and it has a lot of miles on but I do not want another one, I really like this one.
SparkPeople, SparkCoach, SparkPages, SparkPoints, SparkDiet, SparkAmerica, SparkRecipes, DailySpark, and other marks are trademarks of SparkPeople, Inc. All Rights Reserved. No portion of this website can be used without the permission of SparkPeople or its authorized affiliates.
SPARKPEOPLE is a registered trademark of SparkPeople, Inc. in the United States, European Union, Canada, and Australia. All rights reserved.