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WONGERCHI's Photo WONGERCHI Posts: 3,889
10/2/08 4:35 P

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Jim:
Glad that you had a good ride! Sounds like you're getting the fit dialed in too.

Float is likely to have no bearing on foot numbness, maybe it's your shoes or your cleat position. The hood position can be changed and the handlebars rotated to fit - I also like to turn in the brake levers/shifters to fit my hands. Hand numbness could be because of your hood position or just the cockpit setup, it's tough to say without looking at your position.

Price - if it were me I'd split the difference between his asking price and your wife's and aim for somewhere in the $900 mark. The Ksyrium wheels are good racing and training wheels (I have a pair, brand new, bought from a clubmate, installed last weekend) regardless of type so you'll not have to spend more to upgrade crappy wheels. On the flipside, the frame is kinda old...

Yeah you'll probably need a new lid to match the bike. That's why I have a black one too, avoids the matching problem!

In God we trust, all others bring data.
- W. Edwards Demings

If God invented marathons to keep people from doing anything more stupid, the triathlon must have taken Him completely by surprise.
-P.Z. Pearce

Specificity, specificity, specificity.
-Andy Coggan

The plural of "anecdote" is not "data".
- Frank Kotsonis


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JHOLLNAGEL Posts: 1,768
10/2/08 11:50 A

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The ride went excellent. I had no back pain. My hands went numb but I'm sure we can "fit tweak" that; my feet went numb (but it seemed to go away when I concentrated a little more on proper pedaling ..... I clipless may have a little more float then his does???); my rear was somewhat uncomfortable but that could mean getting used to a new/different saddle or I may have to buy a different saddle?

Any ways .... I felt comfortable, I could accelerate fast, climb my rolling hills effortlessly; keep a steady pace without feeling like I was dragging something.

I rode with my hand positions on the hoods the whole 25 mile ride and felt comfortable in that position. Can you change the hood position? This may eliminate the hand numbness? Never felt like I had to drop in the drob bar position.

We (3 of us) kept the pace at an avg speed of 19.4. I could hold a conversation during the whole ride .... I pulled for some of the ride.

The Giant retailed new for $1800-1900. It is a 2005. He upgraded the cranks from a triple ring to a double HaloTech compact crank. He upgraded the rims (whheels) to a Mavic Krysirium and he is running Michelin rubber on the bike. It will come with the wireless cat eye like I said earlier and the KEO Look Spring pedals

As far as water bottle cages .... the bike is mostly black with yellow and silver accent colors. I thought I may go with yellow. My Nike shoes are black with silver accents but I might die the Nike swoosh to a yellow.

However, I may need a new helmet my current one matches my old bike blue with silver. Now I will have to find one that is black with yellow and silver:-) LOL

Again, he is asking $1,000 I replied to his e-mail last night asking him what is bottom line may be. My wife is wanting a much lower price $700-800. I really like and want the bike and may have to work something out.

My wife says I'll find another bike later if I can not get the price lower .... I have been researching and to find a bike fully carbon I'm not so sure.

So what price would you aim at?

Jim

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WONGERCHI's Photo WONGERCHI Posts: 3,889
10/2/08 11:12 A

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So how'd the ride go? I don't know what the retail for the Giant is so I'd start there and see what has changed from stock and work out a price.

Bottle cages are bottle cages. Any one that holds your bottles in place will work. The only advice I'll give you is get ones which match your bike! I like black ones myself.

In God we trust, all others bring data.
- W. Edwards Demings

If God invented marathons to keep people from doing anything more stupid, the triathlon must have taken Him completely by surprise.
-P.Z. Pearce

Specificity, specificity, specificity.
-Andy Coggan

The plural of "anecdote" is not "data".
- Frank Kotsonis


 current weight: 190.0 
 
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JHOLLNAGEL Posts: 1,768
9/30/08 11:07 A

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W

I found out last night from the LBS that the bars on my old bike would have me disqualified if I entered into any sanctioned races. Even if I entered as a novice level.

So I will have to suck it up and learn how to ride with the drop down style of bars.

I was fitted last night so I can hardly wait to get a ride in. I noticed a lot of pressure on the hands when I had them resting on the curve of the handle but when I placed them on the hoods about 50% of the pressure went away. Same amount of pressure in the drop.

He said I look good on the bike now. The only other thing he thought we would have to change out is the stem length and height possibly. Right now he wants me to ride it for a long distance (Wed night group ride hopefully) and take note on what I'm experiencing and report back to him. Then we will see what other adjustments need to be made if any.

I know it will probably take several hundreds of miles before I really get it zeroed in but I guess my main concern right now is do I feel comfortable on the bike overall. I liked how it felt in the stand but the true test will be on the road.

The LBS asked me how I liked the Madone and I said I loved it .... he said the Giant OCR will probably have the similar ride and feel as the Madone. I hope he is right because I think I will be purchasing it.

The OCR will include the KEO Look Spring pedals (I currently have the KEO LOOK) and it will also include the CatEye cyclometer (wireless) that gives the time, speed, max spd, avg spd, 2 Dist settings, Odometer. Will auto shut when the bike is not moving and go into to sleep mode after 10 mins.

I will have to buy two water bottle cages .... any ideas????

Let me know what you would pay for the bike.

Jim

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WONGERCHI's Photo WONGERCHI Posts: 3,889
9/30/08 10:17 A

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Ah you have an integrated TT bar on your bike already I suspect. You could swap bars but I'd personally go with the standard bar with clip-ons, for the sheer number of hand positions, and the fact that you can be aero-ish in the drops but still be really close to the brake/shifters. And you can't ride in a typical aero position in a group anyway!

On a regular drop handlebar you'll spend about 90% of your time on the hoods, with your hands resting on the shifter/brakes. That's a great place to be - you can brake and change gear lightning fast. In the aero position, you can't get to your gears (unless you have bar-end shifters installed) so changing gear is more challenging. You just have to practise taking one hand off the aerobar and changing gear without wobbling - if I can do it anyone can...

I love my Profile Design T2+ clip-on bars but anything aerobar Profile Design makes is a good one. I also have Profile Design handlebars too and really like them.

For the fit you need to either measure your old bike or bring both bikes so that the measurements can be transferred. With bars, provided they're the same width (same as your shoulder width) and the drop from the saddle is the same then you should have no worries.

In God we trust, all others bring data.
- W. Edwards Demings

If God invented marathons to keep people from doing anything more stupid, the triathlon must have taken Him completely by surprise.
-P.Z. Pearce

Specificity, specificity, specificity.
-Andy Coggan

The plural of "anecdote" is not "data".
- Frank Kotsonis


 current weight: 190.0 
 
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JHOLLNAGEL Posts: 1,768
9/29/08 4:25 P

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W

No I can not clip the aero bars and go. They are the old triangular shape areo/handle bars. The base of the triangle is as wide as your normal drop down handle bars. Then they slightly drop where you can place your hands and mount the brakes. The bars swoop upwardly to an apex where the shifters are mounted.

I have not seen a similar style. Yet I have had people look at the design and have been wanting to duplicate the same set up. Why I would not know??? I know I like it with the exception that I can not shift fast ... I have to lift my hands off my normal riding position to shift. (If I'm in the aero position then shifting is a breeze)

However, if I have the Sti Shifters in with the brake levers .... this would be in a perfect placement for me to shift in my regular riding position. Although, I would no longer be able to shift from my aero position, but then again how often should you be shifting once you are in the aero position???

I was not going to bring my old bike; but based on what you are saying it may be faster to fit me if I did?

Where I see the problem is in the handle bar area measurements???

I'm wondering since I like my current bars so much .... should I swap them out to the new bike if I end up buying the bike or keep the original bars on the new bike and invest in newer pair of aero bars?

Which leads me to the next question .... what is a good aero bar on the market now?

Jim

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WONGERCHI's Photo WONGERCHI Posts: 3,889
9/29/08 4:04 P

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Jim:
Sounds like you have a close to ideal fit on the Raleigh. Get the measurements from the Raleigh and just duplicate them on the Giant. The key parameters are all measured relative to parts of the frame (bottom bracket etc) so if the frames are at all close (+/- 2-4cm) then you'll be able to duplicate your existing fit by adjusting the seatpost, maybe swapping out the stem, etc.

For handlebars, you're on your own - can you not clip your aerobars to the tops of the new bars and go?

In God we trust, all others bring data.
- W. Edwards Demings

If God invented marathons to keep people from doing anything more stupid, the triathlon must have taken Him completely by surprise.
-P.Z. Pearce

Specificity, specificity, specificity.
-Andy Coggan

The plural of "anecdote" is not "data".
- Frank Kotsonis


 current weight: 190.0 
 
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JHOLLNAGEL Posts: 1,768
9/29/08 11:30 A

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W

Thanks for the site. This will be helpful to record change and effect.

I gues what I was looking for is to see how far off the frames were from each other with respect to wheel base, top tube lentgth, stem length, etc, etc.

I wanted to see if this would be a natural fit.

Since I'm new to this, I'm trying to see if I can get an edge on whether the bike "fits me"? I'm not sure if I will know the difference or even know if it is a right fit? I'm assuming if it feels good it is a right fit?

Currently, I no longer have crotch numbness, hand numbness, sore shoulders, sore lower arms or upper arms, no more leg cramps ( this may be because of different hydration technique?).

The only numbness I feel some times is in my feet .... which some times I think is due to how I'm positioning my feet when pedaling either to far downward/upward. When I make a correction the numbness goes away.

I have lower back issues which I'm attributing to a weak core (I have not been disciplined in doing my crunches on a regular basis .... I need to start up again) or because I'm receiving all the road vibrations through my seat tube and stem? I'm assuming and hoping that some of this may go away with a composite bike frame?

I was not fond of the drop down style of handle bars but really love my old aero profile aero bars. I may have to see if I can rig or find something similar to what I have or really get a drop down style of bars that I can tolerate and re-learn how to ride with these?

Jim

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WONGERCHI's Photo WONGERCHI Posts: 3,889
9/29/08 9:34 A

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The only way to do this properly is to measure. From what I remember, the Giant has a compact geometry (sloping toptube) so the only way you can duplicate your fit is to measure. The Park Tools website has a great how-to to measure your road position here:

www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.as
p?
id=130


It may be slightly more detailed than you need but it's great. You DEFINITELY need to get saddle fore-aft, tilt, drop to handlebars and reach sorted though. I took the time to record all my measurements and now if ever I want to try a new bike I can actually set it up myself in the shop.

There's a chart for MTBs too but I linked to the road one.

In God we trust, all others bring data.
- W. Edwards Demings

If God invented marathons to keep people from doing anything more stupid, the triathlon must have taken Him completely by surprise.
-P.Z. Pearce

Specificity, specificity, specificity.
-Andy Coggan

The plural of "anecdote" is not "data".
- Frank Kotsonis


 current weight: 190.0 
 
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MAGELLAN1's Photo MAGELLAN1 Posts: 550
9/29/08 7:14 A

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can you get the geometry of the new bike, and use a tape measure to check your old bike?



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PERRYR's Photo PERRYR Posts: 668
9/29/08 6:33 A

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Possible ideas:
- Measure both frames and compare them.
- Quick compare can be had by removing wheels and handlebars from both bikes and laying one frame on top of the other.
- Stand both bikes next to each other and measure using the floor as base for measurements.
- Take digital photo of each frame in exactly the same place (frame and camera) then lay one photo over the other in a photo application. You could print each photo on printer paper and do it that way.

Less techy suggestion - Fit the bike to your liking and ride it. After a couple of rides to get used to it, compare your time to known times on the same route.

JHOLLNAGEL Posts: 1,768
9/28/08 10:53 P

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Hi Folks

I'm running no where with trying to find out what my geometry features are on my current bike: Raleigh Technium 450 (1989??) So that I can compare it to the GIANT OCR Composite Limited.

I have the bike from my buddy in my Wed Night group ride in my possession. So I will be getting it test fitted for me and test riding it for the week.

I just wanted to know if the geometry of both bikes were similar or not????

JIm

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