With your tomatoes do you prune of the suckers or you let them go wild? You probably know this but its always best to cut all branches below the first flower truss. You could go higher if you want. That keeps from blight spreading. Also if you don't prune less air circulation can also lead to blight. From Leaves touching other plants etc. Don't grow potatoes near tomatoes either :). These are all common knowledge stuff but worth mentioning.
What i meant was the larger Self watering containers i make the 18 gal ones work wonders for tomatoes. I have been growing that way for about 4-5 years and always get good results.. i think i might have posted some pictures on this forum ages ago.
The Blue Wind has nice tight heads and I can usually get some decent side shoots after the first harvest.
I haven't used any pest controls in a couple of years, eversince I established a big butterfly garden with a lot of nectar plants to draw in the bugs.
I've tried some heirlooms but they didn't fare well. It was a bad year though so I'm never quite sure if it was the climate or the varietal from just one year. Cherokee did okay but wasn't a big producer. I can't keep the leaves on the tomatoes from getting wet here. Between rain and all the dew it just hasn't happened (well except for one year and I had a great crop of tomatoes that year!)
I use drop irrigation for the watering when needed. It really saves on the water. I am going to try to increase the space between the plants to help with air circulation and stay on top of the suckers.
I want to make some of the self-waters for my transplants before they get to the ground. I have been setting the regular post in these trays made for cars (not sure what they're called!) that I fill with water every couple of days but your idea seems like it might last longer...less evaporation loss.
You should try Rutgers if you haven't. Do you have a preference over Hybrid or Heirloom? I am in Zone 9 so it gets very hot during the summer. I have had very good success with Bigbeef (hybrid) which is an awesome producer very decease resistant and taste really good.
I use Organic sprays like Neem oil and have been testing out Oraganocide which is really smelly stuff but seems to work. I will only use it if i can't seem to control pests.. if they are doing fine i won't spray anything. Only when things get out of hand and i need to save my crop.
The best ways to avoid blight is to never get the leaves wet. That's why i really like Self watering containers. Less chances of water splashing all over the leaves.
I have never tried Blue wind brccoli - how do you like it so far? What's it like?
I am actually still looking for the perfect varieties! I grow a lot of stuff but there are only a couple of varieties I'm hooked on.
Garlic loves it here and so do onions (if I can keep the deer from tap dancing on them). I like the Russian Red garlic and Candy onions.
Collards - Georgia and Morris Heading
Broccoli - Blue Wind
I would love to know if anyone grows near the coast in hot, humid conditions, that has a tomato variety that they like. I've tried several but either they can't fight off the blight or the taste is a little blah. I'm in northeast North Carolina, zone 8a
I try not to use any sprays or pesticides (organic or otherwise). I have been rather successful at this with rotations and plantings of flowers that bring in the predatory insects. The tomatoes and the blight are my one drawback (even on the blight resistant varieties).
This is not very specific but I like to plant any kind of mustard greens and kale because both will do well with minimal care, in fact reseed themselves anywhere in my yard every year. I like Oregon Spring tomatoes because of their short growing season. Birgit
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