Gabby..They recommend using Sevin dust or spray. Since I was late starting my garden is why I have so many of them. According to the Extension Office, the Squash bugs become active at the end of May in SC. It rained so much this year that I had to plant late. They got a jump on me before I knew what was happening. Look on the underside of the leaves for a cluster of eggs (Red or Brown) near the stem where the leaf forms. You have to remove the lava by hand, then treat the plant.
If you have the Squash vine borers, they are a different story. They damage the stem of your plant, by eating the side of it. Well, according to the article, you can split the stem, remove the worm, stick a pin or needle into it and it is dead. Then cover your damaged place with new soil and water regular to see if the plant will survive. For the vine borers, they recommend Bug B Gone or Sevin. Be sure to remove all weeds in the area, even outside the garden area. They like to hide in weeds. I am going to burn my infected leaves and plants so I won't have infestation again next year. They suggest you clean all of the debris out of your garden and garden area in the fall after the garden is done. Till the soil so to turn the borers to the top of the surface. They can't survive that way. They live in the ground until mating season which is springtime.
I will use the Sevin. It is safe to use. I use it for Fleas under the porch. When the fleas get bad on the cat, I dust her with the Sevin. It doesn't bother her any.
How is that for a lesson on worms, bugs, whatever. Hope it helps answer your questions. Thanks Joan Here is a chick to pick the bugs.
Joan68 what insecticide did they recommend? I'm still looking for a good organic insecticide -especially if they said that you had squash vine borers. I'm going to try to cover mine but that's a little impractical for my garden layout. I usually use the three sisters and plant corn, squash and pole beans together, but I guess not this year.
I did the trenching on the tomatoes and any of the other plants that I started from seed. I like the trench method. It was easy. I made a long trench and then just spaced the plants the correct distance. It made the job go faster.
I have spent the afternoon on the computer on the Clemson Extension site, researching my bug problem with my squash. I have the answer and how to apply the insectice. Have a great day. I did get a lot of rain last night during the night. The thunderstorms and rain kept me awake until 4 this morning. So I am sleep deprived today. Headed to WalMart to get the Sevine spray for my squash and cukes. Later Joan
I'm glad you mentioned that Shar - I remember my mom doing that with leggy tomato plants when they go on sale. You can even lay down the tomato in a trench and leave part of the plant out and that helps stabilize the whole thing for that favorite time.....when the fruit is heavy on the vine!
Joan et al Something fairly unique to tomatoe plants is that if you plant them so that some of the stem is in the ground, they will develope roots along the buried part of the stem. Which increases the total amount of roots the plant has.
Fitness Minutes: (26,172) Posts: 1,409 6/3/11 2:20 P
Hi, It is hotter than normal here in SC. I have been mulching just as soon as the plants are big enough and strong enough to be disturbed. I was told to plant my tomatoes a little deeper this year so to get a better root bed. I did and my tomatoes are holding their own. I have fruit on the plants. Because of the erratic weather changes, I had to replant some of my yellow squash and green beans. I have lost several plants to bugs. The wetness seems to have brought bugs that love the squash stock.
I mulch again whenever I see an area that seems to be thin. I did use newspaper ripped up as some of my mulch under the straw. That works well too. Good luck with your garden and weight lost.
November Minutes: 0
Fitness Minutes: (26,172) Posts: 1,409 6/3/11 9:12 A
I got a little better than half the garden mulched when I was chased off by a thunderstorm. A good two inches of rain fell and the temps plummeted to a comfortably level last night. Sprinkling a few of those in every now and then will certainly help with the heat!
Mulching will help retain moisture and keep the roots cooler so mulching now would be good. However, putting down mulch will also help prevent weed seeds from sprouting and those that do sprout will probably have most of their roots in the mulch rather than the soil so will be much easier to pull, so you could mulch even soon next year if you wanted to.
Fitness Minutes: (26,172) Posts: 1,409 6/2/11 11:25 A
My original orders for tomato plants came in pretty much dead so I was late starting this year. Right now my beefsteak varieties vines are about 3 feet high, the other varieites about 2 ft.
The 10 day forecast here in South Carolina shows the lowest high to be 97, with three straight days at 100. No rain is expected except for a slight chance of an afternoon thunderstorm.
I don't usually mulch my tomatoes until early July preferring to let their root systems mature and for me to pick out the weeds before they can get a good start. Then mulching pretty much to help the plants through the upcoming dog days.
Right now I'm wondering if I should go ahead and put the mulch out and moisten it. I use soil moisture meters to tell me when to water, and things have held up pretty well thus far. I am simply concerned about the plants thriving with the heat coming on this early.
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